The "Nylon Nut" Rule: The nuts have a nylon insert (white plastic ring) inside. They are designed to be hard to turn. Dan, you aren't cross-threading it; you just have to apply force to cut through that nylon.
The "Washer" Rule: • Metal Washer: Goes against the bolt head or the nut.
• Plastic/Nylon Washer: Goes between moving parts (like the Press Arm) to prevent grinding.
Phase 0: Tools & Prep
Socket Set Check
Verify you have 17mm and 19mm sockets. A deep socket is best for the long bolts.
Silicone Spray (Required)
Do not start without "Silicone Lubricant". If you use regular oil/grease, the weights will collect dust and jam later.
The Box Opener
Slice the box open in the garage. Do not drag the 300lb box inside. Carry the parts in "bucket brigade" style.
Phase 1: The Frame
DanMain Base
Bolt the main floor T-frame together.
FINGER TIGHTEN ONLY. Do not use the wrench yet.
LisaHardware Hand-off
Find the large bolts for the Uprights. Hand them to Dan with one washer for the head and one washer for the nut.
DanUpright Posts
Attach the vertical posts. Crucial: Ensure the holes for the bar catches/hooks are facing OUT so you can actually rack the bar.
Phase 2: Weight Stack (Careful!)
LisaThe "Donut" Check
Find the two thick rubber bumpers (donuts). Slide them onto the bottom of the chrome Guide Rods BEFORE you put them in the frame.
If you forget these, the weights will crack the base.
DanLubrication
Spray the chrome guide rods with silicone now. It's messy to do it later.
DanStacking Plates
Load the 15 plates one by one.
Lisa Check: Are the number stickers facing out? Is the "10lb" plate on top?
LisaSelector Stem
Insert the center pole (Top Plate) through the hole in the stack.
Phase 3: Top & Tighten
DanTop Beam
Bolt the top frame piece over the uprights and guide rods.
DanPress Arm Axle
Install the heavy press arm.
Lisa: Ensure any PLASTIC washers are placed between the moving arm and the frame to prevent squeaking.
DanThe Final Torque
STOP AND TIGHTEN. Go back to the floor. Tighten every single frame bolt with the socket wrench. The frame must be rigid before cables.
Phase 4: Cables (The Hard Part)
LisaCable Anatomy
Lay cables on floor.
• Upper Cable: Has a "Ball Stop" on one end and a Bolt on the other. • Lower Cable: Has eyelets (loops) on both ends.
DanUpper Cable Routing
1. Start at top Lat Station (Front). 2. Go over top pulleys to the back. 3. Drop DOWN towards the seat back.
LisaThe Floating Pulley (Upper)
Grab the "Floating Pulley Block" (the bracket with 2 wheels). Loop the Upper Cable around the TOP wheel of this block.
DanUpper Cable Finish
Go back UP to the frame, then DOWN to the weight stack. Screw the bolt end into the Selector Stem.
DanLower Cable Routing
1. Attach to Leg Developer (Front/Bottom). 2. Go UNDER the seat assembly. 3. Go UP to that same Floating Pulley Block.
LisaThe Floating Pulley (Lower)
Loop the Lower Cable around the BOTTOM wheel of the floating block. Then pull it down and bolt it to the base frame.
Phase 5: Lisa's Quality Control
LisaThe "Trap" Check
Look at every pulley wheel. Is the cable running INSIDE the little U-shaped metal guards?
If the cable is outside the guard, it will slice the cable in half on the first rep.
LisaThe "Barber Pole" Check
Run your hand down the length of the cables. Are they twisting? If so, detach one end and spin it to unwind the tension.
Phase 6: Final Tuning
DanPads & Covers
Install the seat cushion, backrest, and leg rollers. Attach the weight shrouds (mesh covers).
DanSlack Adjustment
Pull the Lat Bar. If it feels sloppy/loose:
Go to the weight stack. Screw the top bolt DOWN (Clockwise). This lifts the floating pulley and removes slack.